9.30.2013

second YELPing...

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It's so sad that the temperature is dropping, summer is ebbing, and fall has officially begun, because there are so many frozen treats that become far less practical in the cooler seasons. Like, Italian Ice. Italian Ice is one of those spur of the moment, stop because you're hot, want because you're thirsty, kind of delicious treats. Those impulses diminish (though do not fade away completely for a sweets junkie like me) when there is a chill in the air. Check out this in action in my yelp review of Lighthouse Italian Ice in Red Bank, New Jersey.

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If there are local businesses, food leaders and restaurants you want to read about, do not hesitate to let me know. I would love to interview, sample and explore various areas of the food sphere. Or are you a local food business and need photos taken for websites, ads or portfolio, or even for an event you are catering? Reach out via email and we can set something up. I would love to work with you. Check out my FOOD-tography for more examples of my work!

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9.25.2013

SLOW food: JoJo Restaurant


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JoJo in New York City, was quiet when I first arrived; the first floor was filling slowly, and smiles danced in the flickering of the muted candlelight and the bar tender was moving quickly to fill deep wine glasses. Upstairs, it was just as still, but there was room for a few more parties ready to indulge. The little stylish menu echoes the mix of modern and elegant décor, which is also reflected in the construction of the plates that eventually arrived at our table. After the appetizers the hum grew louder, and the upper dining room filled with warmth. It was a leisurely meal; slow food service, perhaps because of the increase in volume, allowed for girlie chats and full sips of red wine.

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The Peekytoe Crab appetizer was a maze of elements that came together nicely but was up to the diner to assemble. The heavy cumin of the crackers and the fresh crab created a complex system where each brought out the sweetness of the other. The pieces of bright and acidic fruits added another layer of sweetness laced with the tangy fruit notes.

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This appetizer was pretty straightforward but expertly executed. Each Calamari ring and tentacle was crisp, battered and crunchy though the octopus remained tender. The littered pickled chili, slices still with a seed or two, added heat and that earthy green pepper feeling. The sauce was made with yuzu, which created a play of sweet and spicy, like the contrasting textures embedded in the appetizer. 

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Even though this was called sushi, the Crispy Salmon Sushi was nothing like what is typically imagined when hearing the word sushi. There was no seaweed or rolls but it was a refined interpretation, transforming sushi into a different kind of elegant. Sushi grade raw salmon rested on a thin but potent layer of chipotle mayo and a cube of fried rice was the foundation. It was like a savory rice pudding, crisp to counter the texture of the slick salmon. The different temperatures played tug of war, until the spicy may ignited the mouth and united the warm rice and cool salmon. Something about the green sprig that rounded the flavors and produced a clean finish.
 
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The Duck entree presented duck in multiple ways.  Not only were there sizable rounds of duck breasts, but thigh meat was chopped coarsely and stuffed into  thin crunchy brick pastry. A wet pile of sweet and sour shallots rested in the middle of the plate, underneath the delicious duck dumpling. The tangy shallots brought out the meaty luxury of the duck medallions encircled by a little fat, making each bite perfect. Even though the pastry comprised of duck as well, it launched the diner into another category, with denser and gamier flavors and hearty notes. A dichotomy was set up celebrating the duality of duck, highlighting its decadence and richness.
 
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The Lobster dish was also more than it seemed, but simple at the same time. It felt like a refined, deconstructed clambake, including the sweet corn and fingerling potatoes. The spices even recreated that grilled warmth and a little heat that is reminiscent of the summer tradition. The same spices coated the lobster with salty savory elements and emphasized the seafood’s sweetness.

Butterscotch Pudding proved to be a very heavy and layered dessert, with the pudding at its base, topped by a thin canopy of smooth caramel, with a dollop of crème fraiche, and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. The mix of the intensely sweet butterscotch and caramel and the liberal dusting of the salt, transformed the pudding from a childhood favorite to an adult comfort.  Even the monotony of texture was soothing, as each spoonful was different and the salt crystals added unexpected crunch with a burst of refreshing flavor.
 
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A Peach and Black Berry Crumble topped with lemon verbena ice cream, hinted at the peak moments of summer, highlighting the sweet tangy stone fruit and the seedy tart berries. The fruits themselves were not that sweet, just soft in their purest form, but the crumble strudel crunchy embellishments brought that sweet dessert form. Even the ice cream was not terribly sweet, but the custard had floral notes that rounded out the summer season and herbal feelings that ushered the diner into fall.

JoJo felt like a beautiful dining room, hidden behind a secret door in an old home, from the decorated interior to menu. Everything felt comfortable, aged and familiar, but the contemporary twists, the lovely layers of textures and flavors as well as the elevating of classics made the meal and experience truly special. It was definitely worth the wait.

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9.23.2013

APPETITE: taste & talk tent


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Appetite presented by Count Basie Theatre in Red Bank featured the Taste & Talk Tent. The large tent was brimming with local artisan food vendors ranging from craft beer from Carton Brewing to liquor produced by Jersey Artisan Distillery all the way to delectable  sweet and savory chocolates created by Donna & Company on Saturday, Septemeber 7. Not only were there samples lining every vendor table in the tent, but the tent was filled with discussions about the products and culinary trends.

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Rook Coffee Roasters stood by, doling out samples of their cold press coffee, which is dark heavy and strong. The representatives served up cup after cup perfect with ice cubes and a little simple sugar syrup for sweetness.
 
Lauren Christen
Papa's Pilar offered the crowd a taste of both light and dark rums, and later Philip Greene shook up traditions daiquiris while imparting knowledge on the inspiring Hemingway. Rum runner Lauren Christen explained the age difference of the two  rums and how that relates to their flavor profiles.
 
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Angel's Envy bourbon whiskeys allowed connoisseur and beginners alike to learn about the layers involved in cultivating the dark liquor. Orange bitters and cherries were served with the small samples to enhance the flavors of the liquors, unlocking new complexities within.
 
Andrew Lee, Michael Criscuolo, Adam Bossie, and John Beam

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Even Coffee Afficionado presented something unique and artisanal to something deemed familiar. One of the founders, Adam Bossie, emphasized that Afficionado is a "chef driven concept that is fully integrated" from farm to cup.  As a distributor of high quality coffee favored by top chefs, the brand curates blends to fit the needs of restaurants, helping to end the meal on a high note with exceptional coffee. To ensure consistency and quality, Bossie mentioned that they train staff members in the art of their coffees.
 
Chris Paseka and Shauna McGowan
Sugarush cupcakery offered beautiful confections for every kind of sweet tooth boasting lemon to peanut butter frosting flavors paired with cakes from carrot to red velvet. Each sweet bite felt customized and special as Chris Paseka piped frosting on to the samples in the moment. He emphasized his pleasure working with Count Basie Theatre as a way of supporting the community, a way of local helping local.

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The Taste & Talk Tent really allowed local business owners and products shine, reminding us that there is talent everywhere, around the corner or down the street, even in our own back yards.
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9.20.2013

photo op: harvest in the SQUARE


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Harvest in the Square was like a giant picnic in Union Square Park, where locals and foodies came together to celebrate the culinary richness of the area, by indulging in offerings provided by 50 area restaurants and 20 wineries. This is just a slice of the feast including fresh produce from the famed Union Square Greenmarket, meat, seafood, vegetarian, and dessert selections, to raise funds for the Union Square Partnership. Check out the details in my recap on Miss A.

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9.18.2013

UNDER the sea: Blue Water Seafood



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Red Bank’s main street is lined with stylish shops and trendy eateries, among them Blue Water Seafood. The large front windows opened up the modern space complete with the exposed kitchen space and tanks with live sea creatures. And at the same time that atmosphere flooded onto the outdoor seating, right on the bustling sidewalk.

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The menu’s focus is seafood with a mix of traditional and straightforward seafood dishes, seasonal items with twists and even some that leave behind the water theme. The restaurant offers raw bar items like oysters and littleneck clams on the half shell as well as different colossal cocktails like shrimp and crabmeat cocktails. The crab cocktail was made up of lump crabmeat at its most pure form, and served with a lightly dressed salad, some rich red cocktail sauce and a few wedges of bright lemon. Each lump of crab exuded freshness and encapsulated delicious crab flavor uninterrupted by spices and seasoning.
 
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The array of salads range from classics like Greek and House salads, to the Pepper Seared Sashimi Tuna salad. The Mediterranean was a colorful salad, heavily laden with tangy Gorgonzola and layered with little oranges slices, sweet roasted beets and toasted pistachios on top of a bed of mixed greens, all dressed with a shallot garlic vinaigrette. Each element was lost to the superfluous cheese, but once some was removed, a sweet harmony arouse. It was fresh and alive with the crunch of pistachio pieces to counter the slippery textures both the beets and the citrus.
 
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The specialty Dry Sea Scallop dish served with linguine was one of the many classic dishes presented by the seafood restaurant. Others included hearty pieces of meats or chicken with a myriad of complementing seasonal sides to seafood pastas. This pasta was topped with a never-ending amount of scallops paired with tart grape tomatoes, earthy spinach and meaty mushrooms, coated in a rich truffled butter sauce. Each swirl of the pasta induced a wave of fresh flavors. The lovely scallops mimicked the textures of the spongy mushrooms and wilted spinach while the tomatoes added that bite. Even the truffle essence heightened the flavors, bringing refinement to a rustic feeling dish. It would have remained light had the butter sauce not become heavier, compounding salt and richness with every bite. Though the initial moments still left a sweet memory on the tongue.
 
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Blue Water also boasts a number of combinations with a mix of different fish and preparations. When broiled the different fish are prepared with a panko crust adding a light and crunchy layer to the succulent seafood. The three fat scallops were just pink and plump while the cod was buttery and flaky but the shrimp fell short, a little over done. The roasted potatoes were traditional and simple and the mixed vegetables were even simpler allowing the seafood to be the star.
 
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Even the desserts were traditional and comforting favorites from chocolate cake to tiramisu. The bread pudding was a healthy hunk of creamy custard, sweet and dense. A delicate drizzle of strawberry reduction offered momentary relief of the decadent pudding. Ice cream melted into the cube of custard adding another layer of luxury. Thin sliced of almonds throughout the condensed pudding would have played well to the sweetness and unified texture even a dash of citrus would lighten the dessert and connect it to the seafood theme. Even the simplicity of the desserts underlined the classic nature of many of the dishes and the modern aesthetic.
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9.16.2013

APPETITE: food trucks


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An empty lot adjacent to the Count Basie Theatre patio was transformed into the Food Truck Court for the special weekend long Appetite foodie event (see more here and here). Entrance to the patio and food truck court was a mere $10 and included live musical performances, access to the patio bar and the diverse food trucks hailing from near and as far as New York City. Over the two days various trucks and their representatives offered the guests delicious street food options from BBQ to unique ice cream sandwiches.

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Oink and Moo BBQ featured fun and flavorful BBQ with items like pulled pork and brisket sliders, meat packed chili and savory spicy ribs. A tangy goat cheese and jack cheese quesadilla replete with peppers and a side of black bean salad was offered for the non-meat eater. The three pulled pork tacos were served with crunchy cabbage and a little salsa and bean salad to highlight the spicy sweetness of the meat while the sliders were topped with a creamy cole slaw to cool the mouth and crisp potato chips to add texture. Even the sweet cornbread dunked in the meet heavy chili increased balance and accent. Josh Sacks, food truck owner, revealed that there is a smoker on board their purple truck and the secret ingredient of their sweet corn bread.
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Mayhem & Stout from New York City brought along two meat sandwiches with complex flavor profiles and layering. The pretty rib sandwich was constructed with care in front of the guest, a procedure to create balance. The buttery tender ribs lay on the bun base topped by some pickled white onions, tangy to contrast the succulent meat. Then a delicate drizzle of blueberry siriacha intensified the heat and added subtle sweetness to the savory sandwich. The pulled pork sandwich came with a heap of cold slaw for traditional BBQ goodness.

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Coolhaus, ice cream and ice cream sandwich experts, rolled into the food truck court on Sunday, enticing guests with their innovative frozen desserts. They dished out several creative fun ice cream flavors like candied bacon and whiskey & Lucky Charms to be mixed and matched with their equally unexpected cookies like snack food and red velvet. The combinations were endless, and obviously delicious, combining sweet with savory, and familiar with obscure. Their thick customized ice cream sandwiches even came in an edible wrap, making devouring the childhood dessert a breeze.

Andrew Deming
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And Freezy Freeze, the Red Bank gem, brought smiles to the faces of customers as they watched their customized ice cream freeze before their eyes with the help of liquid nitrogen. Andrew Deming founded the ice cream truck after a trip with his daughter to the City where they saw frozen desserts created the same way. He mentioned that the quicker freezing time results in a smoother and creamier ice cream. Freezy freeze also offered a wide range of toppings ranging from heath bar crumbles to pink salt and rotating flavors, like coffee and mint.

The trucks offered something for everyone. Still hungry? And maybe a little thirsty? Stay tuned for the Taste & Talk Tent offerings, some with a very adult twist…
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